Introduction: Why Mileștii Mici Is Worth the Journey
While Cricova may be the more famous name, Mileștii Mici holds a record that no other winery on Earth can claim: it is home to the largest wine collection in the world, officially recognized by Guinness World Records. With over 200 kilometers of underground tunnels carved into limestone at depths of 40 to 85 meters, and a staggering collection exceeding 2 million bottles of premium wine, Mileștii Mici is not merely a winery—it is an underground city.
Located just 12 to 16 kilometers from Chișinău in the Ialoveni district, Mileștii Mici offers a wine tourism experience unlike any other. Visitors can drive their own cars through the underground “streets”—each named after grape varieties like Pinot Noir or Cabernet—or ride the electric train that navigates the vast galleries. The Golden Collection alone contains over 1.5 million bottles, some dating back decades, stored at a constant 12-14°C.
For anyone visiting Moldova, this is a destination that demands a spot on the itinerary. What follows is a comprehensive guide to getting there from the capital, covering all available transport options so you can choose what suits your budget, schedule, and travel style.
1. Public Bus: The Budget-Conscious Choice
The public bus is the most economical way to reach Mileștii Mici, though it requires a bit more effort on your part.
Route and Departure: Buses depart from Chișinău Bus Station (Autogara Chișinău) and head toward Mileștii Mici Moara. The journey takes approximately 35 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic and the specific bus.
Frequency: This is where the public bus shines—services run every 20 minutes, operating every day of the week. You won’t have to wait long for the next departure.
Cost: A one-way ticket costs just $1 to $2 (roughly 18-36 Moldovan Lei), making it by far the cheapest option.
Important Considerations: The bus drops you at Mileștii Mici Moara, which is the village stop—not the winery entrance itself. From there, you’ll need to walk to the winery complex, so factor in extra time and be prepared to navigate the final stretch. The bus is basic in terms of comfort, and if you’re carrying luggage or prefer a more polished arrival, this might not be ideal. Additionally, since the bus is a local service, English may not be spoken by the driver, so having your destination written in Romanian can help.
2. Taxi and Ride-Hailing: The Convenient Choice
For travelers who prioritize convenience and door-to-door service, taxis offer the most straightforward solution.
Distance and Time: From central Chișinău to Mileștii Mici Winery is approximately 12 kilometers, taking around 16 minutes by car. From Chișinău Airport, the distance is about 14 kilometers, also roughly 18 minutes.
Cost: According to 2026 pricing data, a taxi from Chișinău to Mileștii Mici costs approximately 88 Moldovan Lei (about ¥35 or $5-7), with a base fare of 30 MDL and 4.3 MDL per kilometer. This is remarkably affordable, especially if you’re traveling with two or more people.
Ride-Hailing Apps: Bolt is widely used in Chișinău and offers a convenient way to book a ride. One traveler reported paying 150 Moldovan Lei (about £6.50) for a Bolt from the city to the winery, with the journey taking around 20 minutes.
The Return Trip Challenge: Here is an important caveat—Bolt and other ride-hailing apps do not work reliably outside of Chișinău. After your tour, you may struggle to find a driver on the app, even if several dropped tourists off at the winery earlier. The solution? Ask the winery staff to call a local taxi for you. This is a common practice, and the staff at Mileștii Mici are accustomed to arranging return transport. The local taxi back to Chișinău will likely cost around the same as your ride out (approximately 150 MDL).
Waiting Service: If you want your driver to wait during your tour, expect to pay 60 MDL per hour of waiting time. Given that tours typically last 1.5 to 2 hours, this can add up, but it guarantees a ride back without any uncertainty.
3. Self-Driving: The Unique Underground Experience
If you have a rental car, driving to Mileștii Mici offers something no other winery visit can match: the chance to drive your own vehicle through the underground wine galleries.
Route and Time: The drive from Chișinău to Mileștii Mici is short—about 12 kilometers, taking 16 minutes in normal traffic. The winery is located in the village of Mileștii Mici, Ialoveni district.
Parking: Parking at the complex is free. There is no petrol station at Mileștii Mici itself, so fuel up before you leave Chișinău—the nearest stations are in Ialoveni or along the M3 highway.
Cost: Fuel for the round trip (about 40 kilometers) will set you back roughly 50-70 MDL, depending on your car’s consumption.
Why Drive Yourself: Mileștii Mici was originally designed to be experienced by car. Driving through the underground “streets”—each labeled with grape names like Cabernet Street or Pinot Noir Street—is a genuinely unique experience found nowhere else in the world. Normal traffic rules apply underground, and the surreal atmosphere of navigating a wine city by car is unforgettable.
Alternative Underground Transport: If you don’t have your own car but still want the underground driving experience, electric trains and bicycles are available as part of tour packages. This lets you cover more ground than walking and adds a playful element to the visit.
4. Organized Tours: The Stress-Free Option
For travelers who want everything arranged—transport, tickets, guide, and tasting—organized tours eliminate all logistics.
Typical Package: A standard tour from Chișinău to Mileștii Mici lasts about 4 hours and includes:
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Hotel pickup and drop-off in an air-conditioned vehicle
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A scenic 30-40 minute drive to the winery
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Guided tour of the underground cellars (often by electric train)
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Wine tasting featuring 3 Mileștii Mici wines (typically a white dry, a red dry, and a dessert vintage)
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Snacks such as prosciutto, salami, carpaccio, breadsticks, nuts, and prunes
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A complimentary bottle of wine as a gift
Duration and Timing: Tours depart at various times, with options at 10:00 AM, 11:00 AM, 1:00 PM, 3:00 PM, and 5:00 PM, depending on availability. The entire experience from hotel pickup to return takes approximately 4 hours.
What’s Included vs. Extra: Most tours include round-trip transport, entry tickets, the underground tour, and tasting with snacks. Meals and additional wine purchases are not included. Some tours also combine Mileștii Mici with a Chișinău city tour for a fuller day.
Booking Requirements: Tours must be booked at least 2 days in advance, and Mileștii Mici is described as “the most visited winery in the world,” so early booking is highly recommended. The winery is closed on public holidays including December 25, January 1, and January 6.
Pros and Cons: The obvious advantage is zero stress—you’re picked up, guided, fed, and returned to your hotel. The downside is less flexibility and a higher total cost compared to DIY travel. However, for first-time visitors or those short on time, the convenience is often worth the premium.
How to Choose: A Decision Guide
Choose the public bus if: You’re on a tight budget, don’t mind walking from the village stop to the winery, and are comfortable with local transport. The 20-minute frequency makes it convenient, but plan for the final walk.
Choose a taxi or Bolt if: You value door-to-door convenience and are traveling with 2-4 people (splitting the cost makes it very affordable). Arrange your return trip in advance—either by asking the winery to call a local taxi or by pre-booking through your hotel—since ride-hailing apps don’t work well outside Chișinău.
Choose self-driving if: You have a rental car and want the unique experience of driving through the underground wine galleries. Remember to fuel up before leaving the city, and bring a jacket for the 12-14°C underground temperature.
Choose an organized tour if: You want everything handled—transport, tickets, guide, tasting—and don’t want to worry about logistics. Book at least 2 days ahead, and consider combining with a Chișinău city tour for a full day.
Practical Tips
Dress Code: Regardless of how you arrive, bring a jacket. The underground cellars maintain a constant temperature of 12-14°C (54-57°F), which feels cold compared to surface temperatures, especially in summer. Comfortable shoes are also recommended, as you’ll be walking through the galleries.
Booking: Tours and tastings at Mileștii Mici require advance reservation. The winery’s official contact is +373 22 382 336 or +373 22 382 333, and the email is marketing@mm.in.md. Opening hours are generally Monday to Friday, 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, though some sources list extended hours including weekends.
Language: Tours are available in English, Romanian, and Russian. If you’re taking the public bus, be prepared for potential language barriers with the driver—having your destination written in Romanian is a smart precaution.
Combining Attractions: Mileștii Mici pairs well with other Moldovan attractions. If you have a car or are on a private tour, consider combining it with Cricova Winery (another underground wine city), Old Orhei (archaeological site and cave monastery), or a Chișinău city tour.
The Golden Collection: Ask about seeing the Golden Collection—over 1.5 million bottles of the winery’s finest vintages, stored in a special section of the underground complex. This is the heart of what makes Mileștii Mici a Guinness World Record holder.
Timing: The winery is open year-round, and the underground temperature remains constant regardless of season. A weekday visit is generally less crowded than weekends, and booking an early tour gives you more time to explore the surrounding area afterward.
Whichever way you choose to get there, Mileștii Mici delivers an experience that justifies the journey. The underground streets, the vast collection, and the sense of descending into a hidden world of wine make this one of Moldova’s most memorable destinations.
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