Uncorking the Underground: The 4 Best Wine Tasting Tours in Moldova
Moldova is quietly claiming its throne as Europe’s most underrated wine destination. With the highest density of vineyards in the world per capita and a winemaking history stretching back over 5,000 years, this small, sun-drenched country offers something you cannot find in Napa or Tuscany: scale. Specifically, underground scale. Beyond the rolling hills of Codru lies a literal empire of limestone cellars, some stretching for hundreds of kilometers. But size isn’t everything; Moldova also excels at boutique, organic, and biodynamic experiences. Here are the four essential wine tours to book, ranging from Soviet-era colossi to modern, eco-conscious estates. Let us learn about the top 4 wine tasting tours in Moldova.
1. Cricova: The Underground Wine City
What to expect: If you only have time for one tour, this is it. Cricova is less a winery and more a subterranean municipality. Located just 15 kilometers north of Chișinău, its labyrinthine tunnels span 120 kilometers, earning it the nickname “the wine city.” You will descend into a climate-controlled fantasyland where street signs read “Cabernet” and “Fetească,” and electric buggies replace feet. The temperature holds steady at 12°C (54°F), so bring a jacket even in August.
What to see: The tour begins with a thrilling buggy ride past massive oak barrels and glinting bottle galleries. You will stop at the “Wine Museum” housed in a former security bunker, which contains a collection of rare bottles, including a 1902 vintage that belonged to Hermann Göring, recovered post-WWII. The highlight, however, is the National Collection—over 1.5 million bottles dating back to 1948. You will see how the limestone (coccolith) naturally filters humidity, creating the perfect aging conditions.
What to do: Standard tours include a tasting of four wines in the underground tasting hall, paired with Moldovan placinta (cheese-filled pastries). For the serious oenophile, book the “Private Degustation” in the Royal or Presidential Cellars—the very room where Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin famously spent three days, only to famously miss his post-flight recovery debrief because he was too drunk to leave. Expect to taste their iconic sparkling wine (made via the Methode Champenoise) and a rare Cahor dessert wine.
2. Milestii Mici: The Golden Collection
What to expect: While Cricova is famous, Milestii Mici holds the Guinness World Record for the largest wine collection in the world. This is for the traveler who wants bragging rights. The tunnels stretch 200 kilometers, housing nearly 2 million bottles. Unlike Cricova’s polished tourist vibe, Milestii Mici feels like a secret military warehouse—because that’s exactly what it used to be. Tours are conducted almost exclusively by car (your own or theirs) as walking is impractical. Prepare for a bumpy, dusty, awe-inspiring ride.
What to see: You will drive through “streets” flanked by floor-to-ceiling racks of sleeping bottles. The sheer volume is overwhelming: bins of Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1960s, magnums of Rara Neagră, and endless bottles of Cricova (yes, their competitor’s wine—winning the record meant buying everything). The most photographed spot is the “Golden Collection”—a vault of rare, museum-quality wines covered in dust so thick it looks like fur. The limestone here is a brilliant white, reflecting the dim lights like a ghost town.
What to do: You will stop at the underground chapel and the tasting cavern, which resembles a medieval banquet hall. The tasting experience is generous: usually five wines, from a crisp Chardonnay to a powerful Pinot Franc. However, the highlight is their Milestii Mici Rosu—a blend that ages for decades. Because you are driving through the tunnels, you do not need to walk, but you do need a designated driver. Many tours offer a driver from Chișinău for a small fee. Don’t leave without buying a bottle of the Traminer; it’s near impossible to find outside Moldova.
What to do: You will stop at the underground chapel and the tasting cavern, which resembles a medieval banquet hall. The tasting experience is generous: usually five wines, from a crisp Chardonnay to a powerful Pinot Franc. However, the highlight is their Milestii Mici Rosu—a blend that ages for decades. Because you are driving through the tunnels, you do not need to walk, but you do need a designated driver. Many tours offer a driver from Chișinău for a small fee. Don’t leave without buying a bottle of the Traminer; it’s near impossible to find outside Moldova.
3. Purcari: The Royal Terroir
What to expect: Forget the caves. Purcari is about the surface. Located in the southeastern region of Ștefan Vodă, close to the Black Sea’s influence and the Dniester River, Purcari is the oldest continuously operating winery in Moldova (founded 1827). It is also the most aristocratic. This is where Russian Tsar Nicholas II sourced his table wine, and where Queen Victoria of Britain reportedly ordered Purcari Negru for her court. You will see rolling vineyards, a renovated château, and a different climate—warmer, influenced by maritime breezes, producing bolder reds.
What to see: The tour includes the historic cellars (shallow by Moldovan standards but dripping with history), but the true sight is the château and the “Vineyard of the Tsar.” You’ll walk through the modern fermentation hall with steel tanks glinting like spacecraft. Purcari has invested heavily in tourism: there is a luxury hotel on site, a pond with swans, and a wine spa. The museum displays imperial decrees and original 19th-century bottles excavated from the property.
What to do: The tasting is conducted in a glass-walled terrace overlooking the vines. Expect a vertical tasting of their flagship Negru de Purcari—a complex, full-bodied red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Rara Neagră, and Saperavi that can age for 30 years. You will also try Rosu de Purcari (a lighter red) and the rare Alb de Purcari (a white that was the personal favorite of Tsar Nicholas II). Pair the tasting with a cheese and charcuterie board made from local Bessarabian products. Afterward, take a walk through the “Alley of Stars” where visiting celebrities have planted vines.
4. Château Vartely: The Modernist & Gastro Experience
What to expect: For a break from Soviet enormity, drive 45 minutes north of Chișinău to the Orhei region. Château Vartely is a family-run, boutique-style winery set on a hilltop overlooking the Răut River Valley. Built in 2004, it represents the “new Moldova”—stylish, tech-forward, and focused on food pairing. The architecture is a deliberate blend of Moldovan traditional and European modern: think exposed wood beams, terracotta tiles, and floor-to-ceiling windows. This is the least intimidating tour for beginners.
What to see: You won’t find kilometers of tunnels here, but you will find a precise, clean gravity-flow cellar where wine moves gently from tank to barrel by force of gravity, not pumps. The barrel room is Instagram-perfect: rows of French and American oak barrels stacked in a climatized gallery. Outside, the view of the Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei) monastery complex carved into limestone cliffs is visible on the horizon. The winery also has a small zoo (ostriches and deer) and a playground, making it family-friendly.
What to do: This is the best tour for food lovers. The standard tour includes a tasting of four wines—their Chardonnay is unoaked and crisp; the Malbec is a surprise star. However, upgrade to the “Wine and Brunch” package. You will sit on the panoramic terrace and receive a five-course meal, each course paired with a specific Vartely label. Must-tries: the Fetească Neagră (an indigenous red grape with blackberry and spice) and their Rkatsiteli ice wine. After lunch, you can visit the on-site cooperage (they make their own barrels) or buy house-made jams and magiun (plum paste) in the gift shop.
How to Choose Your Tour
- For the Record Hunter: Milestii Mici (largest collection) and Cricova (largest cellar system) are non-negotiable.
- For History and Elegance: Purcari offers imperial romance and premium reds.
- For the Culinary Tourist: Château Vartely pairs excellent modern wine with outstanding local food.
- Logistics: Cricova and Milestii Mici are easiest to visit via a guided group tour from Chișinău (most hotels book them). Purcari requires a half-day private transfer. Château Vartely can be reached by taxi or local marshrutka (minibus) to the village of Trebujeni.
Moldova may be Europe’s least-visited country, but it offers its most immersive wine experience. In Cricova you feel the Cold War; in Milestii Mici, you feel the record books; in Purcari, you taste the Tsar’s palate; and in Château Vartely, you see the future. Pack a jacket, a corkscrew, and an empty suitcase—you’ll be bringing bottles home.
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Bryn Jacobs Chief Editor
Hello dear Travelers! I am Bryn Jacobs and I am your travel advisor. Having a vast experience in traveling throughout Eastern Europe and having researched this part of the world myself. I write articles on the site about travel experiences in Eastern Europe with statistics and interesting facts.